I’m going to detail the gear I have, my current thoughts on it, and how I acquired it. To keep costs down, I’ve purchased some used gear. If you’re careful, this can be very helpful but do your research. Some of the older stuff cannot be repaired or made safe to use.
- USING PRE-OWNED GEAR WITHOUT PROFESSIONAL SERVICE COULD GET YOU KILLED!!!
- Snorkeling Gear
- Exposure
- Delivery System
- Buoyancy System
- Accessories
USING PRE-OWNED GEAR WITHOUT PROFESSIONAL SERVICE COULD GET YOU KILLED!!!
This is especially true for the delivery systems, buoyancy systems, and dry suits. Material can degrade over time, so it doesn’t matter that it was serviced just before going into storage. The US Government has regulations on the regularity of service on tanks for a reason. If you buy used items, take them to your local dive shop and have them inspected and serviced. If they say it’s not safe, dispose of it so no one else tries to use it.
Snorkeling Gear
All of my snorkeling gear was purchased new when I signed up for the open water class. With the class, Diventures included a free rash guard and $100 off the entire set of gear.
Mask
SeaClear RayBlocker-HD – I wasn’t looking for a new mask until a friend of mine got one with some built-in glare reduction and raved about it. So, I started researching and decided to try this one. It helped that I caught a nice discount on it. Much to my surprise, I found it to be even more comfortable on my face than my Hollis. However, the biggest benefit is the clarity of vision underwater, as well as the remarkable glare reduction on the surface. It’s my new favorite.
Hollis M-1 – I love this mask. It’s comfortable, seals well, and gives me good visibility.

I got this specifically for the camera mount. In that regard, it works incredibly well. It is comfortable and functional. I cannot give it much more than that because it is not nearly as comfortable for me as my Hollis. It’s not a fault of the mask but rather how they fit my face. I’m glad I have it and will use it some but will be looking for something better for the camera so I can continue to use my M1.
Anti-Fog
Fog-X – Fog Solutions makes these wonderful stick-on inserts that help prevent fog in the mask.
Sea Buff Mask and Slate Cleaner – This stuff is incredible for cleaning a mask. Way better than toothpaste. Does a good job of getting dirt out of every nook in the glass (especially after our dives in dirty lake water.
Sea Gold Defog Gel – Best stuff I’ve used so far to prevent fog. It’s a thick gel, and lasts through multiple dives.
Fins
Scubapro Seawing Nova – These are great for a lot of propulsion with minimal effort. I’ve found one issue with them. Their size means it’s been entirely too easy for me to inadvertently kick up silt and dirt, killing the visibility. I’m in the market for something a little less huge or maybe I can learn some different techniques to avoid that problem.
Mares Avanti Quattro + – I got these to have more control and they definitely allow that. I’ve been able to fine tune my frog kick especially, and I’ve found that the work I’ve done translates over to my Seawing Nova’s. I also got them in yellow for more visibility in the murkiness that is our lakes.
Zeagle Recon – Haven’t tried these yet. I’ll add comments on them later.
Boots
Aqualung Superzip 5mm – They’re boots, they fit with the fins, they do their job. My toes stay warm. I’ve noticed that on rocky lakeshores, going to and from the water, the soles don’t provide much support/protection, so I’m in the market for something to solve that problem.
Scubapro Delta Short Boots 3mm – Got these for diving in the pool and on really warm days. I’ll be doing nothing but pool diving this year in the winter as I don’t have a drysuit yet. Love them. They’re easy to pull on and off, and don’t overheat my feet in the already really warm pool. They are VERY comfortable.
Neosport 7mm Boots – came with a package for colder weather. So far, they’re good for me down to 41 degrees Fahrenheit.
Snorkel
If the snorkel annoys you or legitimately gets in your way, this is the solution. It rolls up, goes into a pocket on the BC, and only comes out if needed. There’s a small clip that goes on your mask so when you need the snorkel, you can Velcro attach it to that clip.
Exposure
Gloves
Bare Exowear 2XL Gloves – I bought these new. They’re thin, great for protecting my hands in warmer water, and have proved to be the perfect thing on cleanup dives.
XS Scuba Sonar 5mm Gloves – I absolutely love these. They have longer wrists that come up over the wetsuit with a velcro strap to secure them. It means 2 things. First, they’re pretty secure on the hands. Second, they don’t allow much water circulation, so they keep my hands quite toasty. They also seem to allow some finger mobility so I can do stuff.
Hood
Akona Beanie – Needed something less than a hood but with a little protection. This is awesome. It also doesn’t make stuff tight at the neck.
2XL Neosport 7/5mm Vented Bib Hood – Part of a package. Very comfortable for me. Tested to 51 degrees Fahrenheit, and my ears were warm, and it wasn’t so tight that I had trouble moving or feeling restricted.
Socks
XS Scuba Spandex Socks – Buy a pair of these, now. They do not stick and catch on neoprene like human skin does. The boots will slide easily on and off your feet. They’ll also help with donning a wetsuit even if you don’t have a skinsuit.
Skinsuit
Henderson Hotskins – A skinsuit is skintight, but not neoprene like a wetsuit. You might ask, “Why would I want to wear something that thin?” That’s actually a good question, and there are three reasons.
- Reason one: skinsuits usually have built-in SPF50. So, it protects everything but your face, hands, and feet against the sun.
- Reason two: skinsuits cover your skin, so it can protect you against some things otherwise, but not as much as a wetsuit because it’s much thinner and less durable than neoprene.
- Reason three, and the biggest benefit of a skinsuit: Remember what I said about how much easier the socks made putting on the boots. Well, imagine that improvement when you’re trying to get into a wetsuit for the whole body. Yes, it’s that much easier.
Wetsuit
Akona Classics – I’ve had the 3mm and 5mm in a couple of sizes. My sizing is a moving target. They’re good wetsuits but I’m probably going to be diving a Henderson Thermoprene Pro this summer.
Sharkskin Chillproof Men’s Fullsuit 4XL – This is my new favorite bit of exposure gear. It’s about the equivalent of 2 or 2.5 mm neoprene, but it’s almost neutrally buoyant (not completely – I did need 2 pounds over no wetsuit). But I can also wear it under any of my other wetsuits to add more warmth and it works well under both of my Akona suits.
Akona 3XL 7mm – works well with a Sharkskin under it.
Henderson Thermoprene 7mm – Works well in our winters, especially when paired with Sharkskin underneath. I had a 6XL originally, but when I lost weight, I sold it. I’ve got an XXLT for in a couple of months as my weight drops.
Delivery System
Regulators
Scubapro MK20/D350/D400 – This is an older model set. The MK20 first stage, once updated (including a recall repair) is essentially the same as the MK25. In fact, as I understand it, most of the parts are interchangeable, especially after the recall fix. The D350 second stage is incredible. It breathes very easy, but I had no issues with free flow. It also works well in any position. I’ve tested. I have a D400 to add to it as an octo.
Hollis 200LX/DCX – Got these (2 sets) for sidemount but I’m using them in single mount while my Scubapro ones are getting serviced. In the warm weather for singles, I’ll dive the D350/D400 but in sidemount or in colder water, I’ll use the Hollis ones. They’re environmentally sealed too. I do like them quite a bit.
Scubapro G250/MK10 – I have picked these up for next to nothing. I plan to use them for stage cylinders. They’re older models, no longer made, but have incredible reputations, and I haven’t seen a diver yet who uses them and doesn’t still love them.
Tanks
All of my tanks have pro valves (can be used with DIN and yoke both). I try to get valves that stick out a bit on the side opposite the knob so they’re easier to grip to carry them.
I have four used 80 cu ft aluminum tanks. I got them all hydrostatically tested and VIP tested as soon as I got them and had new valves installed (Pro Valves) so I can use them with DIN regulators.
Worthington HP120 3442 PSI 120 cu ft Steel – I got two of these used from Flipper’s Diving. They’re the same diameter as aluminum 80s and only 3 inches longer, but add 50% more air. If I sidemount with them and a drysuit, I 1) won’t need any extra weight and 2) will essentially have an extra 80 cu ft tank with me.
Catalina 3300 PSI 100 cu ft Aluminum – This is used as well but is still my newest tank. I got this for the extra capacity for deeper dives and it’s been great for that. However, it weighs a lot. Given the empty tank weight, I’d be better off with a steel 120 (weighs within 1/2 pound of the same weight).
Catalina 13 cu ft aluminum tank – This is for Argon for the drysuit.
Buoyancy System
BCD (Buoyancy Compensation Device)
Custom Backplate and Wing
I spent time putting this together with a combination of new and used components. It has provided me with my best buoyancy and trim control so far. I have two versions.
Version 1 – Scuba Force 12-pound backplate, Hollis DT50 wing, Hollis Elite 2 Harness for 7mm/drysuit diving.
Version 2 – Scuba Force 6-pound backplate, Hollis ST35 wing, DGX Gears Harness for 3mm/5mm/no wetsuit.
- ScubaForce Black Devil Long and Heavy /Black Devil Long Backplates – this is the key to this system for me. It’s 3 inches longer than normal backplates. The Heavy version is 12 pounds, and the standard is 6 pounds. I have both, one for summer, one for winter/drysuit.
- OMS Single Tank Adapter – I got this because it weights a little over 3 pounds by itself. The bolts do stick out a bit.
- Dive Rite Single Tank Adapter – doesn’t stick out as much on the bolts as the OMS.
- Highland by XS Scuba Cam Bands – I prefer the style that completely open up. These are perfect and very secure. They’re also easy to quickly adjust for a different tank size.
- Hollis Elite 2 Harness – I understand the DIR stuff, but I thought I needed a bit of comfort and ease getting in and out of my gear. I’ll use this with my heavier setup (12-pound backplate, 50-pound lift wing)
- Hollis Trim Pockets – I have 2 pairs of these. I can adjust the trim by moving them between the upper and lower cam bands and waist as needed.
- Hollis ST35 Wing – lighter single tank wing
- Hollis DT50 Wing – heavier lift doubles wing I’m using with single tank for 7mm/drysuit.
- Dive Rite Remote Exhaust Inflation Assembly (22″) – Inflator Hose with Pull Dump – this fits the Hollis wings (they have the same threading/size on the wings). I have it for 2 reasons. 1) the Hollis pull dump is only 16 inches long and I need it to be longer and 2) the default on the Hollis wings has no pull dump.
- DGX Gears Harness – for my summer/light setup.
Hollis SMS Katana 2 – this is my sidemount BC. This is incredibly comfortable and so far, easy to manage.
Mares Bolt SLS – this was a used find. A local dive shop here acquired another one that had closed. This was part of the old shop’s rental fleet. I replaced the retraction bungees on it and had it serviced, but it’s otherwise in good shape. Very comfortable and I’ll like using it this summer helping with classes as I do my Divemaster training.
Weights
Sea Pearls Lead Weights – I’ve got a bunch of these used from people local to me. New ones are insanely expensive for what is essentially a hunk of lead.
Accessories
Dive Lights
Orcatorch D560 – Perfect backup lights. I want to get another one.
Orcatorch ZD710 – the link is to a new version of this light. I have the previous version, but it’s still an excellent light.. Picked it up used from someone updating to the newer version. Unfortunately, it’s somewhere in Table Rock Lake, at least 30 feet deep.
Looking for new lights.